Marco Lubiana 'One Terroir' Chardonnay 2023

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Description

"A chardonnay parcel off slightly more silty/gravel over brown/red washed out clay on the Granton Estate hill in the Derwent Valley. A mineral-driven wine with notes of struck match wisping over the white peach, nectarine and citrus fruits below. There's a sense of compression and tension here that I really like; the fruit is quite concentrated but the mineral-laden acid line governs it and provides a great cadence and energy. White peach, nectarine, lemon curd, spiced meal, struck flint, sea spray, crushed shell, white flowers and almond paste with a creamy curd wake marking its passage as it tracks across the palate. Super classy stuff." - 96 Points, Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion

"This comes from a single parcel that feels distinct for winemaker Marco Lubiana. The winemaking approach seems to lean into more pressing (more texture) and more flavour (more barrel). Both ok by me. The fruit is biodynamic (certified) grown. At the meatier, fuller end of the spectrum but the whoosh of cooling, briny acidity comes through and whips things into shape. It’s just-ripe peach and nectarine, green almond, pear, a lick of natural yoghurt and a faint crackle of honeycomb and sea spray. It has a glossiness and bulbous nature, slips and slides along well and long, a bit of warmth but fits the bill, finishes with just a touch of (pleasing) bitterness that finishes dry and mouth-watering. Serious wine, serious flavour, complex, layered, intense and just damn good." - 96 Points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front

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