Place of Changing Winds (POCW) is the brainchild of wine importer, Rob Walters, who has drawn inspiration from the dozens of iconic producers that he imports under the name Bibendum Wine Co. Amongst many more, Rob is responsible for the safe transport of names such as Hubert Lamy, Henri Germain, Antoine Jobard, Arnoux Lachaux and Ponsot in Burgundy; Egly Ouriet, Larmandier Bernier, Agrapart and Prevost in Champagne, and Luciano Sandrone and Massolino in Italy.
Armed with an enviable knowledge gleaned from his producers over the years, Rob set out to replicate the French viticultural methods and adapt them to our beautiful climate and soil, planting the POCW vineyard in Bullengarook in 2012. Vines were planted at very high densities ranging from 10,000 vines per hectare, up to a back-breaking 33,000 vines per hectare. Managing the vineyard is extremely labour intensive, but yielding truly magnificent, game-changing results.
While there are a few high-density vineyards in Australia now, we're not aware of any project in the new world quite like this endeavour from Rob. While still in relative infancy, we're already seeing highly distinguished wine from POCW that is battling it out for the title of Australia's finest Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. And the best part is, as the vines keep sinking their roots into that beautiful Macedon soil and establish themselves further, the wines are only going to get better - which if you've tasted his epic 2019's and 2021's and plotted the trajectory, is a very exciting prospect indeed.
Rob's 2022 Place of Changing Winds is a startlingly good continuation of what we've seen so far. Intensity and complexity is high, but the wines retain a gorgeous sense of grace. We're mad for them, and can't wait to share the range with you this Saturday. We're also using the opportunity to pour the terrific value 2023 Shiraz and Chardonnay from Yarra Valley star Luke Lambert.
Place of Changing Winds Specials and Tasting Lineup - Saturday 31st August (12 to 2pm)
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'Tradition' White 2022 -
$80 on special this week; $89 RRP
This year, the POCW team decided to see if a blend of the three white grapes they have in the cellar might work as well as the Tradition red. They were blown away by the result, and so were we. This is one-third Chardonnay from a new Dominique Laurent Tronçais cask and two-thirds Marsanne and Roussanne. It has all the generosity of this producer’s Marsanne/Roussanne with the cut and thrust of the Chardonnay (not to mention some seriously classy oak). The first year of aging was in a mixture of 500-litre cask, Wineglobes and neutral barriques. The wine spent its second year in steel. It was bottled at the end of November 2023." - Bibendum
“Mid-light yellow colour, forward for its age, but the bouquet confirms that it's been wood aged and this has also added smoky charcuterie, spices and honey to result in a complex nose. The palate picks up the thread and delivers a rich full-bodied mouthful with roundness and viscosity, well judged phenolics contributing to the structure and texture, the finish rolling long and satisfying. This is a smashing Rhône-style dry white of great character and texture.” - 95 Points, Huon Hooke, The Real Review
'Larderdark' Chardonnay 2022 -
$162 on special this week; $180 RRP
"At this stage in the vineyard’s evolution, the estate’s close-planted Chardonnay vines have only given tiny yields. This has resulted in terrific concentration and power, while the climate has delivered mouth-watering freshness and drive. These two factors make for something unique. The wine was fermented and aged in Wineglobe (glass), one older barrique and one new 500-litre Dominque Laurent cask. It underwent malolactic fermentation and was bottled at the end of November 2023." - Bibendum
“The Place of Changing Winds 2022 Larderdark Chardonnay is a beauty. I was struck by how it eschewed the perhaps trendier reduction and toasty oak-framed narrative and instead observed a more earth-based principle of fruit, open sky and soil… The 2022 Larderdark Chardonnay is pure and slippery: it exudes an unfettered fruit profile and a splay of glassy phenolics. The wine is glossy and mineral, with star fruit, shaved fennel, white pepper, sea salt, pink grapefruit, scratched citrus and crushed nuts. The wine is wide without being broad, and it provides textural support upon which the fruit relies. This is a remarkably beautiful wine, but it is quite distinct. It doesn't go down the reductive, oaky path; rather, it adheres to ground-based principles of fruit, vast sky and earth. It's a beauty." - 96+ Points, Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate
No. 2 Syrah 2022 - $36 on special this week; $40 RRP
"This wine is a blend of Heathcote (66%) and Harcourt (34%) Syrah. Although this is the “entry-point” red, it gets the same attention to detail as the other cuvées, and even here, it has serious intensity, good tannins and ageworthiness. About 70% whole bunches were used, and the wine matured in a range of casks (primarily large Stockinger) for the first year before resting in tank for the rest of its maturation. It was bottled in late December 2023. It’s a spicy, cool Syrah/Shiraz that will drink well young but can be aged with confidence." - Bibendum
“It feels friendly and easy drinking in its way, despite also holding a sense of inkiness and depth. Dark cherry, ripe plum, choc-liquorice with swathes of eucalyptus, dried green herb, pepperberry, lifted myrtle-like pungency – all attractive, all just so. A smooth ride, a pleasure zone red of evenness and general syrah-isms. Cool as.” - 92 Points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
'Tradition' Red 2022 -
$80 on special this week; $89 RRP
"Made only in suitable years, this wine is inspired by the era-defining Syrah/Pinot blends crafted by Hunter legend Maurice O’Shea in the 1940s and ’50s. This release is a blend of 40% Pinot from estate vines and 60% Syrah from Heathcote and Harcourt. It spent the first year in a mix of large and small oak barrels, mostly neutral, with the last phase of aging in steel tank and 600-litre Stockinger cask. It was bottled at the end of November 2023. The result is a bright, perfumed, juicy wine. Although delicious now, it will certainly age well." - Bibendum
“It’s not heavy but there’s impressive intensity of flavour here. It tastes of sheer plum, dark chocolate, roasted nuts and sweet cherry, with woodsy spice and cedarwood characters as part of the veneer. There’s texture, there’s twigs, there’s pure, perfectly ripened fruit, and there’s a firm stamp of integrated tannin. There’s some char to the aftertaste, which is not a distraction and is not a negative. There’s a lot to delve into here. It’s excellent.” - 95 Points, Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front
'Between Two Mountains' Pinot Noir 2022 -
$135 on special this week; $150 RRP
"Place of Changing Winds is roughly equidistant between Mount Macedon and Mount Bullengarook, hence the name of this cuvée, which is essentially the most representative Pinot of the season. It’s a fine, textural Pinot produced from all the estate’s plots (including the highest-density vines), save what went into the tiny Beyond the Forest cuvée. It spent 18 months maturing in Stockinger casks with 50% new oak (although this new component was a 1,000-litre cask, so it has very little impact). It’s a wine that will drink well young and has significant cellaring potential. It was bottled in January 2024." - Bibendum
“Named for its more or less equidistance between Mount Macedon and Mount Bullengarook. Produced from all plots on the estate. Matured in 50% new and old Stockinger casks. Svelte and sleek with distinct succulence and pucker. A sheath of lacy, granitic tannin over dark cherry, tumbles of dried herbs, woody spice, some nori and truffle-like characters in the mix and a general sense of ultra pure, tart cherry juice and flecks of dried currant and cranberry. A real feast for the senses here. Incredible extension of flavour and an almost unnerving consistency to texture in all that – a long and exacting ride of character and charm. Loads of evocative perfume too. Wonderful, all up.” - 96+ Points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
Also on Tasting -
Luke Lambert Chardonnay 2023 - $42 on special this week; $48 RRP
“It’s a juicier iteration of this wine, offering plenty of Chardonnay flavour. It tastes of cling peach, lemon oil, pink grapefruit and has a distinct aniseed perfume, plus gentle spice. It’s a little bit creamy, a little bit nutty/savoury, though does have plenty of ripe grapefruit zing to it, a fine chalky grip, and plenty of length, with an almost Fruit Tingle buzz to it. Flavour with texture. Yum.” - 95 Points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
Luke Lambert Syrah 2023 - $42 on special this week; $48 RRP
"This is such a composed, vivid young Syrah. Expect bright perfume, spice and dark berries woven through delicious earthy, stony elements. It’s slick, expressive and super long; world-class Syrah at an attainable price! Dark cherry and blue fruits, plenty of spice, black olive and grilled meat. It’s medium-bodied, spicy and perfumed, meaty too, with a surprisingly intense burst of ‘minerally’ acidity through its core. Tannin is all crushed rock and sooty goodness, and the finish is long and savoury and stalky. Very good."- 95 Points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
If you wish to buy any of these wines, please use the links above ? Alternatively, email us at sales@thewineemporium.com.au, or contact us on (07)32521117 if you have any questions
// Prices valid until Thursday the 5th of September