Ever faithful to a consummate sense of style and 'savoir-faire', many are still echoing the same sentiment - the champagnes from Billecart-Salmon have never been better. Still family owned and operated, over 200 years after a faithful meeting between Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon set it all in motion, this house's mantra of 'finesse, balance and elegance' has been realised to its fullest extent since Mathieu-Roland Billecart (seventh generation) took the wheel in 2018. Alongside his chef de caves Florent Nys, the pair immediately began transitioning their vineyards to organic and biodynamic farming, while deliberately lowering dosage across all cuvées to further refine the sense of fruit detail and precision in these precious bubbles. For us, while their status in the vintage and grandes marques level was never in doubt, there is now no question that Billecart compete fiercely at the entry NV bracket alongside the other beloved go-to options.
Perhaps the shining example of the class and quality Mathieu-Roland and Florent have brought to the table is in this week's Champagne Monday highlight, the Le Sous Bois NV! Renamed slightly, just like with their Le Réserve NV to indicate an overall shift in philosophy, this one sees only oak barrels in the vinification stage (no stainless steel involved) and an 'extra brut' dosage approach (sitting at just 3 grams of sugar per litre), prioritising the depth and power of its 2018 base vintage. Not only that, but aged reserve wines make up a generous 37% of the overall blend here, filled with ten vintages with the oldest dating back to the lively 2006 harvest.
We're beguiled by both the roundness and the nuance going on here; the 5 years or so of aging on lees in those old oak barrels grant the generous aromatics (baked pastry, glazed nuts, polished wood and wet stone) and stacked structure through the mid-palate (dried flowers, mint, melted butter and baking spice). Even still, it is not without a fresh and youthful appeal once the cork is popped, and it'll pair delightfully with white meats, mushroom pastas or casserole, or any hard cheese that takes your fancy. The Le Sous Bois stands as a symbol of a house doing everything the right way, maximising the potential of their 100 hectares of Marueil-sur-Aÿ vineyards with talent and intent. After all, it was 1818 when Nicolas François and Elisabeth tied the knot - what better way to celebrate 200 years of history than with the 2018 vintage harnessed within this gem?
Roland-Mathieu Billecart represents the seventh generation of this family-run estate; a near extinct breed in this day and age. He has aimed for, and achieved a great modern foundation since taking the role in 2018, and has no plans to stop.
"When I arrived, I said I wanted Billecart to be a mythical wine. There is a lot of marketing in champagne, but I don’t believe there are myths, as with wine that floats above everyone else. It’s about shooting for the stars all the time."
Billecart-Salmon Le Sous Bois NV
$169 on special this week ($189 RRP)
// 38% Grand Cru Chardonnay, 33% Premier & Grand Cru Pinot Noir and 29% Pinot Meunier
2018 base vintage (63%), with 37% reserve wines dating back to 2006
Aged for 5 years on lees before disgorgement June 2024
3g/L dosage
"This unique cuvée, which is entirely vinified in oak, is composed of the three Champenois grape varieties. It totally masters the art of blending by renewing the ancestral spirit and savoir-faire of the original champagnes. Le Sous Bois offers a complex aromatic definition and a character linked to vinification in oak casks. The aroma delivers a rich blend of harmonious notes, including pastry, citrus, and orchard fruits, intertwined with alluring malty hints that evolves into mocha and bergamot. A burst of flavours on the palate showcase subtle notes (milk rolls, melted butter, and gentle spices), ideal for the development of fine Champagne wines enriched by meticulous aging." - House Notes
"The NV Extra Brut Sous Bois (base 2018) is a major step up from the 2017. Then again, this vintage was much more favorable. Aromatic, bright and sculpted, the 2018 is so complete. Silky contours and well-judged oak give the 2018 a great deal of finesse to compliment dried orchard fruit and floral nuances. Powerful and ample in the glass, with tons of structure, the 2018 dazzles with its mix of orchard fruit character and French oak inflections. Dried flowers, chamomile, mint and dried lemon peel all build through to the finish." - 95 Points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
"A copper straw color, entirely barrel-fermented in cask, it reveals notes of smoky wet stones, toasted croissant, orange citrus, baked peach, almond, frangipane, and salty earth. Full-bodied yet savory, it offers a mouthwatering and brothy character while remaining fresh and youthful, without transitioning into oxidation. It’s very appealing now but should have no problem showing its best over the coming 10 years." - 92 Points, Jeb Dunnuck
If you wish to purchase this champagne, please use the link above
If you have any questions, please contact us on (07)32521117 or email sales@thewineemporium.com.au
// Special price valid until Monday the 10th of August