We'll always remain full of praise for Champagne Devaux, tireless in their passionate winemaking from the Burgundian limestone-clay soils that dominate what are Champagne's southernmost vineyards, and the patient aging techniques to which celebrated cellarmaster Michel Parisot views as paramount. It was only back in January when we shined the spotlight on their well-valued Coeur des Bar Blanc de Blancs NV, which after selling through, has arrived back with a fresh shipment and will be brought back down to the same great special price alongside today's Champagne Monday choice - the more chances for any newcomers to try this wonderful producer's sense of power and finesse, the better!
As for this week's star, we couldn't pass up picking out the latest in the special D Millésimé series (only produced in their very best harvests), the 2014 vintage! Marking the ninth release, following on from other beloved vintages like 2008, 2009 and 2012, we continue to be pleasantly surprised by how '14 is looking in bottle these days, given our adoration for Collet's effort just a few short weeks ago. While a number of the more northern houses experienced a very wet summer that year, hindering certain plots and overall yields, Devaux's position down south in Côte des Bar's Bar-sur-Seine played greatly in their favour, with a consistent sun-filled spring and summer, and dry conditions come flowering time in autumn when it came time to pick the fruit.
It manages to be a champagne of two personalities - one elegant and charming, and the other more emboldened and robust. The nose is filled with florals and fresh white fruits, with smaller flicks of lemon zest, brioche and salty sea spray, before the more powerful palate takes over with a mouthfeel of roasted almond and hazelnuts, nectarine, strawberry, and plenty of dessert-filled hints such as nougat, baked apple crumble and small bites of a delicious lactic cheesiness that no doubt stem from the ten years of lees aging before disgorgement. As a result, such a multi-faceted bottle of bubbles could be enjoyed entirely on its own, or paired with richer dishes like scallops, lobster, truffle or comté cheese.
It's a complete treat to behold in its current form - on special for the next week alongside their Blanc de Blancs NV!
The multi-layered barrel room at Champagne Devaux, with their cellarmaster Michel Parisot spotted among the oak, doing what he does best. This house's motto is 'the luxury of time', and Parisot has continually ensured those words are realised to their fullest extent since joining in 1999.
Devaux D Millésimé Vintage 2014
$145 on special this week ($165 RRP)
// 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay (Côte des Blancs and Côte des Bar)
Aged on lees for ten years before disgorgement in May 2024
7.4g/L dosage
"Made only in an exceptional vintage, from a unique harvest, the D Millésimé champagne is made up of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, selected from the best plots. It is matured for a further 7 years, revealing all its complexity on the nose and on the palate. 2014 had ideal weather during flowering. The bountiful harvest under the sun provided us with grapes featuring entirely satisfactory alcohol levels and remarkable health for our Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines. The outstanding quality of this 2014 harvest allows us to enjoy exceptional wines. Pretty floral nose accompanied by notes of white fruits. The extended aging also brings delicate hazelnut aromas. The palate presents a beautiful tension with a very pleasant juicy and fresh sensation reminiscent of lemon zest. The finish recalls ripe yellow lemon and concludes with utmost delicacy." - House Notes
"Lovely depth with layers of cooked-apple and brioche character. Medium-bodied with a solid core of fruit and a long, flavorful finish. Plenty of tarte tatin and brioche at the end but dry. 50% malolactic fermentation. 10 years on the lees." - 95 Points, James Suckling
"The 2014 Brut Millésimé D is a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with just under half of the base wines undergoing malolactic fermentation. The nose is subtle, offering a touch of red and yellow apple and chalk. The palate is fresh and vivid, presenting a lovely apple and lemon verve against deep chalkiness. This wine has such energy and elan, with the Pinot Noir playing second fiddle to Chardonnay brightness while adding a backdrop. Lovely." - 94 Points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Also back and on special
Devaux Coeur des Bar Blanc de Blancs NV
$89 on special this week ($99 RRP)
// 100% Chardonnay from Montgueux
Aged for 3+ years on lees before disgorgement early 2025
~25% reserve wines
8g/L dosage
"Very light yellow colour. Fresh, youthful, pure-fruit aroma, the palate again youthful and light with fresh lemon fruit and a trace of sweetness on entry, then a cleansing acidity tracing through a very long finish. Finishes nice and dry. A smart wine: a bit more age would serve it even better." - 95 Points, Huon Hooke, The Real Review
If you wish to purchase either of these champagnes, please use the links above
If you have any questions, please contact us on (07)32521117 or email sales@thewineemporium.com.au
// Special prices valid until Monday the 22nd of June