As with any season that presents its own climactic challenges, eventual success often hinges on the nitty gritty; the small vineyard decisions, identifying the desirable parcels, accepting the losses and acting swiftly on the factors that do swing in your favour. The great Richard Geoffroy understood this more than most, whose direction as Dom Pérignon's chef de cave since 1990 shone as a time of both significant transition and remarkable success, up until his departure at the beginning of 2019. To be seen as such a figure at a house as storied as Dom Pérignon - 1668 the year when a French benedictine monk of the same name was appointed their first cellarmaster and went about changing wine production in Champagne forever - is certainly no small feat.
Geoffroy was always too happy in rising to the challenge, renowned for introducing their now-beloved Plénitude series, emphasising a more 'reductive' style of winemaking than was popular at the time of his takeover (opting for less oxidation of the fruit, preferring a sense of toasty tautness), and embracing what many others would've considered extreme seasons. 2017, his very last involvement before passing the baton onto Vincent Chaperon, was indeed troublesome for many, with much of the region's Pinot Noir bearing the bruises of rot and acetic acid that degraded overall quality through heavy harvest rains. Chardonnay was not so unlucky; in fact, vintage 2017 was some of the finest they'd ever produced in the eyes of Geoffroy, and now makes up only the second Chardonnay-dominant Dom Pérignon in their modern history!
Champagne Monday this week celebrates the miracle of this unique vintage, standing as their smallest production of the modern era (15% of the regular production). Unusual as the path getting there was, this is still unmistakably Dom Pérignon, gleaming with rich citric intensity, mellow tropicals, toast, smokiness and long chalky pith where the Chardonnay comes into its own. It is completely alluring to unravel over a long afternoon, and surprisingly strikes us as the most 'ready to drink' a Dom has ever been this fresh out of the gate. We then remember who we're talking about here, and wonder why we let surprise come into it at all.
Their next release will be just around the corner, given the tiny production here, but we say this with fervour to Dom fans far and wide, don't let this beauty slip past the radar. A fitting final farewell to the legacy of Richard Geoffroy, who we raise our glasses to this week while it stays down on special!
Richard Geoffroy (left), the chef de cave of Dom Pérignon for a remarkable 28 years, captured sharing some words with his successor Vincent Chaperon (right), who took the reins of the legendary house at the start of 2019.
Dom Pérignon Vintage 2017
$395 on special this week ($450 RRP)
// 62% Chardonnay and 38% Pinot Noir (from 18 Grand Crus + Hautvillers Premier Cru)
Aged on lees for 7 years before disgorgement in March 2024
5g/L dosage
"This is indeed a beautiful example of a great Dom Pérignon! The wine is very precise yet ethereal – with dreamy notes of Bishop’s Lace, white/green snowdrops, white nectarines and lily of the valley. There is maiden-hair fern swaying in the breeze, as well as Samphire – that salty succulent growing in beach areas. The salinity in this champagne is so striking and tempts the palate to search for further nuances, showing in the form of energetic mousse and crunchy acidity. There is a very enticing nose of green pears packed in new straw in a fresh wooden box, as well as herbaceous notes of chervil, lemon thyme and glimpses of tarragon. One can also find baby green peas in their pods, and lots of finger lime with its intriguing flavour. This wine abounds with lime characteristics - also in the form of Kaffir and Tahitian – as well as suggestion of almost green mango and flicks of custard apple. There are a few wild strawberries and raspberries creeping in, but it is the chardonnay which dominates and gives such precision to the palate. 5 grams of dosage is the perfect balance. There is a whisper of honeydew melon and some complexity from grated macadamia nuts and blanched almonds all surrounding lucious white cherries. There are flinty layers, with the whole wine focused on chalky & mineral presence, binding the final package together with style, enticement, and amazing precision. It is the hallmark of elegance and complexity with exuberant charm! My dear friend Richard Geoffroy (former chef de cave of Dom Pérignon) blended this incredible champagne – which was his last composition – having composed his first Dom for the 1990 vintage. He taught me so much about palate structure and I recall his insistence on 'blending' – to always show restraint! With the massive amount of vineyards he had to play with, it would have been so easy to make full generous wines, but he wanted us to enjoy the experience of the wine 'growing' in our glasses and cellars. Such a great farewell champagne for him to leave us with – 'restraint' in abundance - and a treasure to have for many years to come!" - Bernadette O'Shea, Champagne Consultant, The Wine Emporium
"The 2017 Dom Pérignon is just as stunning as it was last year, if not more so. What a wine! Lemon confit, marzipan, white flowers and chalk soar out of the glass. The 2017 is like a slightly more refined version of the 2002, another year in which the Chardonnays were quite opulent. In 2017, Chardonnay accounts for 61% of the blend, very high for Dom Pérignon. Over the last year, the 2017 has gained mid-palate creaminess and has just come together beautifully. Sadly, production is tiny, so much so that the 2017 is expected to be in the market for just a few months before the maison transitions to the 2018." - 98 Points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
If you wish to purchase this champagne, please use the link above
If you have any questions, please contact us on (07)32521117 or email sales@thewineemporium.com.au
// Special price valid until Monday the 27th of July