It was a mere 4 hectares of vines upon which Lucien Leclerc laid down his mark within the village of Cumières in 1872. It was eighty-three years and four generations later that his great grandson Bertrand, with great bravery and dynamism in an era where chemical use had become the norm, made the move towards total organic viticulture. After his marriage to Jacqueline Briant, forming the Leclerc Briant name as we know it today, daily operations had grown beyond the small family structure by the mid-20th century, inspiring their relocation to the famous town of Épernay. With a larger facility and increased expectation, the temptation to go the easy route must have run high. A temptation that was not acted upon.
Now renowned as one of the first names in the region to embrace organics, it was Bertrand's son Pascal who began the integration of biodynamics by the late '80s, further cementing the house's 'nonconformist' reputation. Cut to present day, even after a change in ownership in 2012 due to the risk of being swallowed up by the bigger brands, it is two experienced Champagne disciples in enologist Hervé Jestin and general manager Frédéric Zeimett who carry forth the same torch of sustainability and terroir-conscious expertise. Their catalogue is vast, boasting some of the most distinct single vineyard statements of the modern 'grower champagne' movement, but lately we've grown entirely enamored with their Brut Réserve NV - this week's Champagne Monday highlight!
Fleshy, floral and laser-focused, this Brut is vinified partly in oak and is made up of equal parts Pinot Noir and Meunier (40% each, with the remainder Chardonnay), granting an aromatic density that wafts with notes of patissiere, oriental spice and fresh almond paste. The mouthfeel is appropriately weighty and filling - hinted at by the wine's deeper golden yellow hue - with its 2020 base vintage and low 4g/L dosage imparting an intense surge of tangerine twang, creamy lemon tart and toasted nuts, before finishing dry and grippy with some well-measured smokiness.
A telling showcase of the delicious potential the two Pinot grapes can bring when dancing alongside one another in the right blend. The integration is impressive enough on its own, but should the temptation for some food arise when the cork is popped, pair it with some richer dishes like barbeque pork, lamb shoulder, or a good comté cheese. A champagne lover's dream - one to sit back with, and uncover another unseen subtlety on every sip.
On special at a great price for the coming week!
Hervé Jestin is a man very well-respected around Champagne, having done stints at Duval-Leroy, Bollinger and Moët Chandon, accomplished at each stop through his sense for experimentation and total belief in organic viticilture.
Since joining in 2012, Leclerc Briant has proven the perfect project within which to flex those 30+ years of expertise, pulling the estate from the brink of oblivion back to a deserved place in the modern 'grower' conversation.
Champagne Leclerc Briant Brut Réserve NV
$109 on special this week($125 RRP)
// 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay (organic & biodynamic)
2020 base vintage, disgorged in August 2023
4.5 g/L dosage
"Light to medium straw colour with a brassy tinge, the bouquet meringue-like and smoky with some toasted nut characters and a little aldehyde. A suggestion of barrel maturation. The palate is very dry, savoury, intense and long. A serious dry Champagne, seemingly low dosage and firm on the finish. The impression is of a dry, low-dosage style involving lots of pinot noir and some oak. A wine that could age well. It should not be served too cold." - 95 Points, Huon Hooke, The Real Review
"Very deep-flavoured and persistent. This is really compelling wine that sparkles rather than standard-issue champagne. Almost rich on the mid palate but dry and refreshing on the finish. Very, very rewarding." - 17/20 Points, Jancis Robinson MW
"Nicely toasty and creamy on the nose, showing white-peach preserves and pear tart with fine depth. A sharp, focused palate reveals layer after layer of complexity yet remains fresh and dynamic through the long finish." - 94 Points, Andrii Stetsiuk, JamesSuckling.com
If you wish to purchase this champagne, please use the link above
If you have any questions, please contact us on (07)32521117 or email sales@thewineemporium.com.au
// Special price valid until Monday the 21st of September