Place of Changing Winds (POCW) is the brainchild of wine importer, Rob Walters, who has drawn inspiration from the dozens of iconic producers that he imports under the name Bibendum Wine Co. Amongst many more, Rob is responsible for the safe transport of names such as Hubert Lamy, Henri Germain, Antoine Jobard, Arnoux Lachaux and Ponsot in Burgundy; Egly Ouriet, Larmandier Bernier, Agrapart and Prevost in Champagne, and Luciano Sandrone and Massolino in Italy. And what do all these producers have in common? They're all truly GREAT grapegrowers and arguably among the worlds best!
Armed with an enviable knowledge gleaned from his producers over the years, Rob set out to replicate the French viticultural methods and adapt them to our beautiful climate and soil, planting the POCW vineyard in Bullengarook in 2012. Vines were planted at very high densities ranging from 10,000 vines per hectare, up to a back-breaking 33,000 vines per hectare (3,000-6,000 vines is the average in Aus). It's extremely labour intensive, both during pruning, and the growing season, but its yielding truly magnificent, game-changing results. While there are a few high-density vineyards in Australia now, I'm not aware of any project in the new world quite like this endeavour from Rob.
While still in relative infancy, we're already seeing highly distinguished wine from POCW that is battling it out for the title of Australia's finest Pinot Noir. And the best part is, as the vines keep sinking their roots into that beautiful Macedon soil and establish themselves further, the wines are only going to get better - which if you've tasted his epic 2019's and these 2021's and plotted the trajectory, is a very exciting prospect indeed!
We've been on-board this project right from the beginning, and are very proud to open these wines on Saturday for tasting and discussion!
Please be quick, these are made in tiny quantities and will sell out! If sold out before the tasting we will still open these bottles for those wanting to know more about this exciting new producer.
Place of Changing Winds Wine Tasting All 5 Wines in todays email are open Saturday 13th May Midday-2pm
(or until the bottles are dry)
High density planting induces intense competition between the vines, asking them to send their roots deep for nutrient and water, rather than staying at the surface.2021 Place of Changing Winds "High Density" Pinot Noir
Only 100 dozen produced
$164 on offer ; $185 RRP (per bottle)
$345 on offer ; $389 RRP (per MAG)
Here the fruit was mostly destemmed, with less than 10% whole bunch, however, there was some hand destemming (with scissors) of the fruit from our highest density vines (33,000 vines/ha) which kept these berries completely intact on their pedicel. The aging was for nineteen months in low-impact Stockinger wood, 25% of which was new. The name may be a little misleading as all our vines are “high density”, but the blend for this wine is based on our very highest density vines; those planted at 20,000/ha to 33,000/ha. This is a more serious and structured wine, built for aging. At the same time, you will still find the finesse that we strive for, as well as great freshness and energy. - Rob Walters
“Great clarity and depth of colour, and an extra layer of richness, with essence of dark berries, then red berries minutes later, the mouthfeel supple and smooth. The fruit was 90% destemmed, and post ferment was matured for 18 months in Stockinger oak (25% new). Drink to 2043.” 98 points, James Halliday, The Weekend Australian
“High toned perfume, lots of white pepper, preserved cherry, red plum, roast vegetables, anise. So attractive. The palate has a come hither fleshiness and richness, dark spice, new leather, brightness to fruit but its the dark stuff and yet finds a crispness with incredible inward concentration. Gravelly grip with a glide. It has this open weave and flavour, depth too but has this really distinct feel of ‘there is more to come’ – such a good personality in that regard.” 96+ points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front *Also 96 points, Huon Hooke, The Real Review
Buy the High Density Pinot Noir
2021 Place of Changing Winds "Between Two Mountains" Pinot Noir Only approx 250 dozen produced
$98 on offer ; $109 RRP (per bottle)
$209 on offer ; $239 RRP (per MAG)
Place of Changing Winds vineyard is located between two mountains—Mount Macedon and Mount Bullengarook—hence the name of this cuvée. This wine ended up being around 1/3rd whole bunches and spent nineteen months maturing in Stockinger casks with no new oak. It’s a powerful Pinot, yet it still has great finesse and loads of upfront fruit. It will certainly drink well young, but we’re certain that it will age for a very long time, based on the balance and ample structure. It’s a blend of several parcels. - Rob Walters
“Deep crimson-purple; it has an exotic perfumed bouquet, partly from the inclusion of one-third whole bunches, and partly from 18 months maturation in used Stockinger barrels. The power and length of the wine is extraordinary: the “drink to” date should prove conservative. Drink to 2040.” 98 points, James Halliday, The Weekend Australian
“Supple textured, deep and gently savoury, mellow red and black cherry fruit characters, sourness in a pleasant sense, alpine herbs, a slick dusting of clove and cinnamon, bright, blood orange acidity and licks of game meat, truffle and autumnal savoury elements. It feels fine and fancy, exqusiite in detail of flavours and beautiful texture. Sensational, really. Top flight.” 96 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
2021 Place of Changing Winds Harcourt Syrah
$50 on offer ; $57 RRP (per bottle)
This is the first Place of Changing Winds release from the soils and climate of Harcourt North in the Bendigo G.I. With its pure, sandy, granite soils and its mild climate, this specific place stands apart from the rest of Bendigo. It’s a vineyard that can grow wines of tremendous perfume and finesse, even if the 2021 is a deeper and more structured release, reflecting the season. - Rob Walters
“Deep red with a tinge of purple and a bouquet that is highly perfumed and emphasising floral/violet and fresh-herb aromas, brooding spices too, while the palate is very full bodied and concentrated, deep and firm, framed in robust tannins. A big strong wine with terrific structure for ageing, the plush fruit balanced perfectly by serious tannins. Impressive shiraz.” 96 points, (#1 out of 73, 2021 Shiraz from Victoria) Huon Hooke, The Real Review
“Very floral in the perfume, violets and lavender, whiffs of eucalyptus and loads of raspberry, cherry and strawberry, in a fog of scent too. Lots of concentration to taste but with a glossy wash of acidity under the tart red cherry, game meat, dried herbs and white pepper characters. Beautiful flavours, fine, satiny tannins, great extension of flavour, a cool, minty finish. Spot on medium weight fragrant and spicy style.” 94 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
2021 Place of Changing Winds Syrah #2
$35 on offer; $40 RRP (per bottle)
This wine is a blend of both Heathcote and Harcourt fruit. It has serious intensity, Nebbiolo-like tannins and genuine age-worthiness. It was matured in a range of wood (mostly neutral) and concrete vessels for 16 months, before resting in steel tank for six months prior to bottling in late February 2023. It really benefits from plenty of air at this stage in its life, so we encourage drinkers to decant it as early as they can. It gets better and better. -Rob Walters
“While juicy and thick set it has a good deal of fruit, spice and herbal information, both perfume and palate does dark cherry, choc-mint, sage leaf, blood orange – with fine, firm, al dente tannin in the vein of nerello mascalese or similar. It’s a brooding and deep red, chewy and potent but with levity on its side. Charming in the moodier frame.”93 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front * Also 93 points, Huon Hooke, The Real Review
2021 Place of Changing Winds Harcourt Marsanne
$50 on offer ; $57 RRP (per bottle)
This year the Marsanne comes from the same vineyard as the Harcourt Syrah. There is also a fair dollop of Roussanne in the blend, from the same site. The grapes were picked fully ripe, pressed hard and sent straight to barrel (500 and 228-litre) for fermentation and aging. As with previous releases, this wine is the opposite of what you would typically expect of an Australian Marsanne regarding harvesting dates, winemaking and style. It will certainly age well—gaining more and more honeyed characters—but it’s delicious now. Plenty of generosity on offer, as well as freshness from Harcourt’s granitic soils and climate. - Rob Walters
“Really textural, rich and potent, a savoury edge and more on the preserved lemon, ginger, buttery honey toast with cool acidity underlying. It’s very complex, a layered and intense experience with Serious White Wine written all over it. Mouth-coating and lush in the most wonderful sense. Multi-dimensional wine. A full and fantastic white wine.” 94 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
If you wish to purchase these wines, please use the links above ? alternatively, email us at sales@thewineemporium.com.au, or contact us on (07)32521117 if you have any questions // Prices valid until Wednesday the 17th of May