For a great many winemakers, particularly those involved in releases chosen in only the very best harvests, wines become their children. Guided, nurtured, and yes, even pampered with complete attention, shaping a singular expression of time and place, soon entering the big wide world with what is hopefully a bright future ahead. The dividing line between the simply good and those that carve themselves into another tier above lies often in knowing when to intervene, and when to step back to let nature take its course. For a historic house like Taittinger, and their talented cellarmaster Alexandre Ponnavoy, such a call comes as second nature.
A season as climatically abundant as 2018 was ƒor Champagne, there no doubt must have been a moment or two for Ponnavoy where it seemed fate was rallying against him, having taken the winemaking reigns of the Reims-based house earlier that very year. A relentlessly wet winter, a significantly warm spring, and one of the hottest summers ever for the region was not the most auspicious start, and yet with one final overdue miracle in the days before picking, several spells of rainfall calmed temperatures at the most crucial point. From this, and no small share of vigneron savvy, out came fruit of power, aromatic energy and bright acidic structure, becoming clear it would grace the Brut Millésimé series in the future.
A label produced only from harvests deemed 'exceptional', the 2018 is fresh out of the gate, just landing on Australian shores in recent weeks, and deservedly gracing the Champagne Monday stage this week! In a striking contrast to the previous 2016 effort - more of a linear chalky temperament - this '18 is full-bodied and fleshy, pushing exotic waves of ripe peach, yellow apples, pear and kumquat next to mid-palate notes of baked brioche and salted almond. To finish, there are some welcome florals in verbena and gardenia that maintain the wine's moreish edge, ensuring you're back for the next sip in no time.
Delve into this one over a long summer lunch, particularly delicious when paired with some smoked salmon, lobster or caviar. That said, the further evolution over the next decade for a structural bubbles like this is entirely promising - a few of us will be keeping a bottle aside to pop in the years to come for this very reason!
Alexandre Ponnavoy joined the Taittinger team in 2015, working as deputy cellarmaster alongside long-serving legend Loïc Dupont, eventually succeeding him as the primary chef de caves in 2018. His first year in charge of winemaking thus holds a close place in Ponnavoy's heart, and with this latest Millésimé, we can finally see his talents in full flight.
Taittinger Brut Millésimé 2018
$175 on special this week ($195 RRP)
// 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir
Aged on lees for over six years before disgorgement in April 2025
9 g/L dosage
"This Brut Champagne showcases aromas of white fruits, lightly candied yellow fruits, pear and apple to lend this wine its main characteristics. The nose is very appealing and spicy, with notes of hawthorn blossom. On the palate, the 2018 reveals great energy and a relatively fresh attack, with notes of peach and citrus fruit which gradually give way to some initial toasted aromas and a degree of minerality, then a lovely bitterness on the finish. A relatively deep, complex and fruity wine which over time will develop toasted, brioche notes and acquire more minerality as the Chardonnay in the blend slowly brings new balance to the wine over the next three to five years." - Alexandre Ponnavoy, Cellarmaster
The ample power and forward acid profiles of Champagne's 2018 harvest is one of, if not our team's collective personal favourite of the past ten years - Taittinger's newest Millésimé effort flexes this abundant year in all its glory. In striking contrast to its previous 2016 showing - a more incisive and linear bubbles - this release is delectably full-bodied and fleshy, pushing a core of ripe peach, yellow apple and kumquat, which mingle with freshly baked bread and salty almond, plus gardenia and verbena florals that keep each sip bright and positively addictive - Our Notes
"A layered and lively wine with aromas of strawberries and hints of currant bush, lemons, earth, chalk and white pepper. Medium-bodied with structure and freshness. Lively and energetic." - 94 Points, James Suckling
If you wish to purchase this champagne, please use the link above
If you have any questions, please contact us on (07)32521117 or email sales@thewineemporium.com.au
// Special price valid until Monday the 12th of October